Au revoir.
Nora's vacances en Europe ends today. Back to Melbourne via Singapore tomorrow and arriving just in time for the big event on Saturday.
She bids a wistful goodbye to her host city Den Haag. To her hosts Averil and Ross she is once again utterly beholden, for their generosity and hospitality. Fond farewells until we meet again.

Vallée de la Loire.
Averil, Ross and Nora left Den Haag on Wednesday to travel to Montreuil-Bellay. We stayed overnight at Lille to break the journey and spent most of Thursday driving. Arriving late in the afternoon at our destination, Averil quickly read the extensive rule book/accommodation guide of the apartment which Nora studiously avoided. After breaking one of the golden rules: "Don't throw the ball for the labradors (both black) even if they ask-and they will-because they have arthritis"-she thought better and quickly crammed for future faux pas avoidance.
Friday's main attraction was Fontevraud Abbey famous for being the burial site of Richard Coeur de Lion.
On Saturday we began with a visit to Chateau de Breze which had an amazing Colombier (pigeon house - more like pigeon city) near the main entrance.
We then had an extensive (free) tour of the Cave des Vignerons de Saumur - the underground caves are in excess of 10 kms and in the cool, dank humidity lurking in the fog hung dollops of spongy mould hanging from the ceiling, ready to drop on unsuspecting visitors.
The open air market at Saumur was beginning to wind down as we spent a few pleasant moments people-watching over quiche, eclairs and iced tea. Wandered up to the chateau for a cool beer and a wonderful view of the Loire.
Sightseeing continued on Sunday. The first was the troglodyte village museum which provided an interesting insight into the shadowy world of cave dwelling.
Then the zoo at Doue where we spent ages mesmerised by two snow leopard cubs (born in May) bouncing each other like two giant, frisky kittens.
The final attraction was the Mushroom museum caves where more troglodyte rooms were on display as well as the mushrooms -champignons and exotics - in various stages of growth, emerging at a constant 14C.

Morning TV.
Watching TV at Lille (overnight en route to Vallée de la Loire) early Thursday am, my attention was caught (for a couple of milli-seconds) by the chat show “Les Maternelles” and the thorny old question: La jalousie entre freres et soeurs. Est-elle inevitable?

More Royals.
One week ago was the third Tuesday in September and therefore Prinsjesdag. Nora was caught up in the local show of patriotism and royal watching. She waited with the expectant crowd outside Nordeinde palace. A beautiful autumn day set off the festivities as armed officials lined the route taken by a marching band and assorted regiments marching ahead of the royal party towards the parliament building.
Nora caught a glimpse of HRH as she glided by in her golden coach to loud applause and cheering. The Queen then made a speech which opened the new parliamentary year.

Wesel
This weekend Nora accompanied Averil and Ross to Germany for a christening where Ross was to be godfather to twin boys.
Our accommodation was nothing short of brilliant. We stayed at Schloss Lembeck Hotel where my room had the proportions of a ballroom and the most amazing views of the moat and garden. Only two and a half hours from Den Haag and close to the Rhine this was an amazing weekend.

*Birthday greetings to Boynton 17/9
*Birthday greetings to Paris 19/9

SCOTLAND. DAY 15 OBAN TO EDINBURGH VIA BRAEMAR

The drive was a long one but eventually we arrived at Braemar as the annual Highland Gathering was in full swing. This was the consumate Scottish experience. Cabers, weights and stones were tossed. Tugs of War, Scottish dancing and massed pipes were observed in seamlessly organised events and to top it all off - a royal visit from nearby Balmoral.
This was a fantastic event and well worth the diversion. We arrived back in Edinburgh late in the evening for our final night in Scotland at Gilston Lodge.

SCOTLAND. DAY 14 MULL BACK TO OBAN
With a full day's sightseeing available before our 7.00pm ferry we set off for another of Averil's significant clan centres. Duart Castle is clan headquarters and was another grand building with an impressive and illustrious history. Nearby Torosay Castle had magnificent gardens which we came back to see just prior catching the ferry.

Tobermory was another surprise. A colourful fishing village and apparently the setting for a BBC children's show: Balamory.
Our unscheduled but delightful accommodation was at Ard House, a guest house at Connel near Oban.

SCOTLAND. Day 13 MULL
We set off by boat to Staffa in order to explore Fingal's Cave. Wet weather gear was provided (and utilised) as this was quite a damp, rainy day. The views of the cave were spectacular and inspiring. We walked along the slippery rocks to get right inside.
Our boat trip dropped us off at Iona (alleged buriel site of Macbeth) where we spent most of the afternoon exploring the Abbey. The sogginess of the weather began to wear us down somewhat so we returned to Fionnphort for internet cafe browsing and another cosy meal at the Keel Row.

SCOTLAND. Day 12 OBAN TO MULL
After leaving Kilmelford we returned for a better look at Oban. After spending some time browsing around the town we set off for the seal rescue centre where abandoned seal pups are brought for recuperation prior to being released back into the wild.
Returning to Oban we caught the ferry to Craignure, Mull and began the long drive to Fionnphort (pronounced 'fin-ny-firt'). Shore House was our ultimate destination - a cottage located right beside the Iona ferry terminal. Due to a misunderstanding about our shortened stay, we had a somewhat strained relationship with our hosts and spent some time at the Keel Row in deep, malcontented discussion.

SCOTLAND. DAY 11 SKYE TO OBAN
Still on the Gavin Maxwell pilgrimage we sought out the real location of 'Camusfearna', somewhere near Glenelg. We didn't have 'Aspen's' luck finding it although we were able to appreciate the solitary beauty of this relatively unspoiled remote location.
A little further along on the road to Oban we happened upon Eilean Donan Castle. The castle has clearly had a fraught structural life and lay in ruins from 1719 when it was bombarded from the sea by government troops until the 1930s when it was re-built and restored.
Our accommodation that night was at 'Cnoc Na Ceardaich' - Kilmelford with Tom McKay. Dinner at the Cuilfail Hotel was memorable. We entered the bar where three locals (Not one native to Scotland) sat drinking. They greeted us and made us feel welcome and we chatted for some time.

SCOTLAND. DAY 10 SKYE
Today was spent almost exclusively paying homage to Gavin Maxwell or more specifically to the preservation of otters in the wild. We spent some time at the Bright Water visitor centre then had a guided tour of Eilean Bàn. Some research prior to our trip had us well prepared for the day. Virginia McKenna and Bill Travers (prior to his death) were hugely influential in preserving
Eilean Bàn, particularly after the construction of the Skye bridge.

SCOTLAND. DAY 9 SKYE
The rugged and photogenic landscape of the isle of Skye was the star attraction today as we skirted around the Cuillins, Kilt rock and the Old Man of Storr.
Then a visit to Portree, an attractive fishing village and the principal town of Skye.
The otter hide at Kylerhea was where we sat patiently watching for our first otter sighting. Averil and Ross were convinced of a positive sighting. I saw...something! Getting there and back was a thrill a minute with roller coaster roads twisting and turning along the narrowest of precipices. A traffic jam at one point alerted us to the potential dangers. A car had slid off the road and was bogged. Averil and Ross assisted the recovery operation with the drivers and passengers of three or four vehicles pitching in to push it out.
The day was complete when for dinner I sampled the Scottish national dish - Haggis! Served with neeps, nips,tatties and a whiskey sauce - this was a spicy, delicious meal served at the Broadford Hotel. Would I try it again? Hoch ai!

SCOTLAND. DAY 8 ULLAPOOL TO SKYE
Ullapool is a picturesque village located on the shores of Lochbroom. The market and village were explored during the morning until we set off on a speed boat tour of some nearby islands. Another attraction was the possibility of seeing more marine life. The journey required donning a waterproof 'action outfit' which may not have looked flattering but achieved its purpose. It was wonderful to see seals and dolphins again at fairly close range. The ride itself was exhilarating. At the end of all that excitement the fish and chips tasted brilliant.
Leaving Ullapool we sought out the Inverewe gardens on the recommendation of a fellow guest.
Our destination for the day was Skye and our accommodation for the next three nights was with Rosa Nicholson at Fearnoch.

SCOTLAND. DAY 7 ORKNEY TO ULLAPOOL
The scenic route from Thurso to Ullapool was punctuated by a series of approving gasps as each stunning panoramic view replaced another. Thurso itself was memorable for Nora's worst culinery moment of the trip. A Scotch pie! Clearly there are regional variations on this recipe and she should have been warned by the seedy nature of the venue as much as the hot or cold serving option. Ugh.
The route more or less followed the rugged coastline and was essentially slow going as it was exclusively single track, populated by hundreds of ovine pedestrians.
The party stopped for an exploration of Smoo Cave at Durness. From there some hours later we arrived at our destination Tanglewood House, Ullapool. What a house! What a view!
Once we'd met our hostess Anne Holloway and settled in, we walked the short distance to town to have dinner (which was delicious) at the Scottish Larder in Ullapool.
Upon their return, Ross and Averil discovered Sydney, the tennis ball-obsessed JRT (pictured above) had made himself a cosy nest amongst the cushions in the middle of their bed and was in sweet repose. Reluctantly he vacated with gentle coaxing!

SCOTLAND. DAY 6 ORKNEY (Thurs Aug 24)
More of the ancient Pict sites today and the weather was a tad wet.
Successfully negotiated the causeway at low tide to explore the Brough of Birsay as well as the Broch of Gurness. More sightseeing around the island before a visit to Maes Howe - not for the claustrophobic! Crawled the 5 or so metres along the 1 metre high entrance tunnel to see this incredibly preserved/restored structure.
The Vikings had visited already and left behind their grafitti runes. "Erik the Tall was 'ere" as well as "We got the treasure".
Driving was notable for a couple of unexpected livestock delays. Sheep and cattle being herded en masse provided some interesting diversions.

SCOTLAND. DAY 5 ORKNEY MAINLAND (POMONA)
This was a day to explore the ancient Pictish sites of the island. Our quest included Skara Brae, a village revealed by a storm disturbing the cliffs in the mid 19th century. Nearby Skaill House afforded some information on more recent history. Skaill House also represents a grand version of what we came to see as a 'typical' Orkney house. Grey pebble-mix walls with white window frames. Gardens were sparsely vegetated with stumpy shrubs. An aesthetic you could tire of quickly in the bleak, long winters of northern Scotland.
Later in the day we viewed the Brough of Birsay across the tidal causeway which at that point was at least a metre underwater. Determining to return next day when we could cross over, we returned to Kirkwall for some shopping.
Dinner at the Golden Dragon that night was notable for one ubiquitous but unmentioned stir-fry ingredient. Hard to pick out - but even harder to swallow!

SCOTLAND. DAY 4 Inverness to Orkney (Kirkwall).
As the party was due to meet the ferry in the early afternoon a prompt departure from Drumnadrochit was required. The drive to Gills Bay took between three and three and half hours.
At John O' Groats we turned left to the ferry terminal. The journey afforded views of abundant but elusive marine life with Common seals basking on rocks or paddling near the shoreline. A pod of what may have been Hebridean bottle-nosed dolphins, about 20 - 30 of them were emerging and disappearing off to the port side. We passed picturesque, uninhabited islands save for the herds of well-fed sheep.
Driving from St Margaret's Hope to Kirkwall we discovered that Bellavista may well have had a good view if it had been swivelled around by about 90 degrees. Checked in and went for a short drive to get a sense of the place.
Twilight afforded the most inspiring views of the Standing stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar.

SCOTLAND. DAY 3 Inverness Area
A visit to the Culloden battlefield was essential for Averil as she traced the movements of her clan ancestors and their part in the doomed Jacobite rebellion.
Not a great distance away, Cawdor Castle provided more insights into Scottish history. Set in magnificent grounds with a sizeable formal garden, an afternoon of exploring was most instructive and interesting.
Internet access and shopping drew us back through Inverness where we purchased the soundtrack for our journey.
Later back at Drumnadrochit, feeling the need for a curry, Averil, Ross and Nora tried a newly opened Indian Restaurant. Staff almost outnumbered patrons. Word of advice. Twice cooked lamb and half cooked chicken are hardly appetizing...

SCOTLAND DAY 2 (Sunday 20th Aug) Pitlochry to Inverness.
The morning was spent exploring Pitlochry beginning with the Hydro centre and salmon steps on the Tummel river. Pitlochry is a tourist centre and noted for its gardens which were certainly in bloom during our visit.
A short distance from Pitlochry is the Killekrankie walk which features Soldier's Leap and commemorates the Battle of Killekrankie.
After spending a couple of hours walking Nora, Averil and Ross made for Inverness, or to be more precise the village of Drumnadrochit on the banks of Loch Ness. Accommodation for the next two nights was at Tramps. On our first night we ate dinner at the Loch Ness Clansman Hotel with supurb views of the Loch as twilight descended to night.

SCOTLAND. DAY 1
The anticipated rendezvous was achieved without a hitch. Nora arrived shortly before Ross and Averil and the trio then collected the hire car that was to convey them to far-flung destinations. Ross was the designated driver with Averil as navigator. In truth Nora eschews map reading whilst in motion but enjoys looking retrospectively at the places she's been. An agreement was reached whereby the front passenger seat was to be shared but it was understood that Nora could not be relied on to navigate.
Stirling Castle was the first point of interest, about half an hour from Edinburgh and with commanding views of the Wallace Monument. The night was spent at Pitlochry at Cuil an Duin. This first B&B where our hosts were Diah & Douglas McAdam, set a very high standard for the rest of the trip. I think it remains our unanimous favourite...
Dinner was at the Moulin Hotel where the food was delicious, as were the beers.

Retrospective diary.
Welwyn Garden City, Hertfordshire
Nora harks back a couple of weeks to 17th August and a visit with hosts with whom she shares an ancestor or two. The weather, a portent of rain patterns for the next few weeks, was wet-tish and prompted postponing a trip to Cambridge. My hosts were very attentive and suggested two alternative local excursions. The first to St Albans was a fascinating and extensive collection of Roman artifacts found in situ at Verulamium.
Later a visit to Hatfield House. Historically significant as the place where Elizabeth 1 was told that she was now queen. "In 1558 Mary died. Seated under an oak tree in the park, Elizabeth was reading when the news of her accession was brought to her. "
The interiors were hugely impressive as was the garden. There was a little hustle and bustle as they prepared for a Country show in the grounds, which was to be held that weekend.

"A big surprise for visitors on Saturday was to find model and film star Elizabeth Hurley presenting rosettes in the pig competitions, confirming her own interest in the animals since her recent move into farming at her Gloucestershire home. Helping proceedings along in the show ring was BBC Archers character Eddie Grundy in the person of actor Trevor Harrison, who joined in many of the shows activities as well as signing autographs at the Archers Addicts stand alongside fellow actor Hedli Niklaus who plays Kathy Perks."

The following day a long-awaited visit to Cambridge via Ely and the beautiful Ely Cathedral. Ely means island - which it was - until the fens were drained and allegedly the marshes contained many eels...
Cambridge was all Nora had expected. From the punts to the township and colleges. She extends another hearty thanks to her hosts who made such an effort to show her around. Well worth the two year wait from when the original excursion was proposed, when floods barred our visit!

A London moment...
Before Nora does her retrospective Scottish blog she reflects on a memorable London moment. As a pedestrian crossing Oxford Street (with hoards of others I hasten to add) her ears were assaulted by the harsh cries of a London lassie cycling towards us at speed, yelling in anticipation: "Get out of the f*%king way!!" Naturally we obliged and scattered. Not the polite bell tinkle she had observed here in Den Haag...

A much more impressive London moment however, was the viewing Nora had at Tate Britain with M.E.M. Years ago Nora had visited 'Constable Country' with her mother and the said Millie & Co.
A very impressive and comprehensive exhibition showing the artist's varying style as he gained maturity and experience.
As usual Millie was in good form and took Nora for a personal guided tour of Millie's London - Thames installment. After putting some tourists right on the London Bridge/Tower Bridge confusion she was forced to dissuade others from joining our rather exclusive tour.
"London is made for walking. It is a city of small streets and sudden vistas, of unexpected alleys and hidden courtyards. It cannot be seen from a bus or car..." Peter Ackroyd

A Perfect Day in the English Countryside.
The sun was almost out, the car was tres luxurious and the music was G & S.
Norabone was driven by Mile End Millie & Co to the 1066 zone. As the journey unfolded the weather cleared and we arrived in Hastings late morning. Two fascinating museums, the Shipwreck Heritage Centre and the Fishermen's Museum were well worth a visit.
Lunch was the perfect seaside meal (this link doesn't do justice to the real thing), followed by a short, sharp journey via the Hastings cliff railway.
Then a short drive to Winchelsea to visit a rather famous grave. From Winchelsea we drove to Rye and strolled up the picturesque Mermaid Street. Saw Lamb House where Henry James spent much of his writing life and the church at the top of the town where a tower afforded the most amazing views of the coastline and English Channel.
To end a perfect day afternoon tea. It doesn't get much better than that! Thanks to Millie & Co for the best day out...

Young at Heart
Madurodam is an attraction for children of all ages, as Nora and Averil discovered after a brisk cycle on Saturday. This was an excellent way to identify the 'must see' attractions of The Netherlands - in minute 3D scale. Just a tad alarming to see full size carp swimming in the ponds around the ships and barges assuming the role of white pointers perhaps, or killer whales. Normal scale birds landing on the roofs also potentially traumatising very small kiddies.

Meanwhile Nora's travel plans to London were mildly impeded by the current airport crisis. Her first flight was cancelled but quick thinking saw her safely re-booked and transported with minimal inconvenience - under the circumstances. Yes security is tight and there were long delays with processing but it's a delay everyone would welcome when you contemplate the alternative.

The obligatory clear plastic carry on bag contained only the essentials.
The Red Alert has been scaled down in some UK airports today and more tomorrow.

Giethoorn.
Discover the Venice of Holland. Well yesterday we did! Averil, Ross and Nora had the perfect day for messing about in boats. (shhh. They were Whisper boats)

You can't really complain about rain when you're on holiday. (Well...you can...but I'm not about to turn this blog into a moan fest) Even Amsterdam gets wet sometimes which is why I took refuge at an exhibition at the Stedelijk Museum.


Thanks to boynton for allerting me to the Airworld exhibition from Melbourne.

DIY quiz.
Which of the following spanners would you employ to tighten your bicycle pedal?

Excursion. The days of map reading and navigator rage are over when you have this gadget affixed to your windscreen. Verbal prior warnings of turns, merges and exits are all part of the service as well as an on screen map showing your progress. At the end de Hoge veLuwe national park with the Kröller-Müller Museum and sculpture gardens. This was a very interesting afternoon of rambling culminating in viewing an extensive collection of Van Goghs amongst many others. A rumbling thunderstorm and heavy summer showers as we walked a few short ks back to the car did nothing to dampen our enthusiasm.

Just because I'm wearing a singlet and shorts and the neighbours are inflating one of these...doesn't mean it's hot in Den Haag!

Have wheels! Now which way to the beach?

Cliche Statement #1 overheard on airport transit bus. Speaker - nasal Californian male. Listeners - elderly couple from Brisbane . (and me)
"Yeah. I always go to McDonalds whenever I travel. It's the one constant." Nods of approval by oldies.
Ahhh. I guess the local fare is out of the question. ;-)

Here I am back in Singas and my flight here from Melbourne was - luxury. An aisle seat - with no one in my row! Three seats to myself. Woo hoo.

Norabone rides again. Her loyal readership (she knows who you are) can keep in touch in the customary manner. ;-)